A spindle steady is used to steady a long spindle while turning. The smaller the diameter and the longer the spindle is the more likely it is to vibrate and ‘whip’ back and forth, making it pretty much impossible to turn. The spindle steady, using clamping pressure with a series of wheels, tames this erratic motion allowing you to turn your piece as normal. Basically it minimizes the distance of support on your workpiece.

Making your own steady rest is rather straight forward and easily finished in a day, though an afternoon and a few hours the following morning is preferred since this will give time for the glued pieces to dry.

Here’s how I built mine:

Continue reading 'How To Make A Spindle Steady Rest'

If you are not aware, a zero clearance insert’s saw blade opening is cut to the exact width of the saw blade’s kerf. This helps prevent thin slices of wood from jamming in between the blade and the insert, as well as helps to reduce the amount of tear-out that can happen with the stock insert that comes with your table saw.

Being able to cut thin strips of wood safely and minimizing tear-out are enough reasons to install one of these throat plates on your saw. While I use the term, ‘minimizing’ in reference to tear-out this is only to err on the positive side of a statement. My own experience has shown that tear-out is virtually eliminated.

You may wonder why a zero clearance throat plate isn’t a stock item on your table saw but this is because a wider opening is required for different blade angle cuts, and since a zero clearance insert is not required for most general construction use the added cost for including an additional throat plate would be cost prohibitive.

But this is really no problem because making your own zero clearance throat plate/insert is such a simple process that you’ll be surprised that you didn’t make one sooner. Let me tell you how I made mine:

Continue reading 'How To Make A Zero Clearance Insert'

This was a very straight forward process that created a quality product at a very, very low cost.

I purchased the mineral oil at the grocery store in the pharmacy section and I got the beeswax from a local honey maker. The total cost for both was under $3.00 giving a cost per ounce at roughly .24 cents. This is 1/10 of the cost for similar commercial products!

The recipe that I used is simple and it took less than 15 minutes to make it.

Here’s the recipe that I used:

Continue reading 'A Beautiful Beeswax Finish For Cheap'

This was pretty simple and quick to build. It is just two pieces of 1″ X 4″ cut with 45 degree ends and then screwed to a piece of plywood so that two ends meet and are level with the bottom of the plywood.

To use it’s just a matter of setting your tablesaw fence to the depth that you want the slot cut and then cradle your workpiece in the jig and run it through the saw while keeping the back of the jig against the fence.

You can use this jig to put splines in boxes and picture frames.

Back to the shop…

However, one thing about gardening that I don’t consider work is when I get to combine woodworking with it. The way I do this is by building projects meant for the outdoors. One of my favorite projects is a fun one I call The Birdhouse Bench. Here’s a couple I made the other day:

Each one is about 30″ wide, 15″ deep, 40″ tall and made from scrap lumber. They only take a few hours to build and make a great addition to your garden.

Continue reading 'Building Benches Is For The Birds'

This was a project that I wanted to do since I started woodturning. But like a lot of things getting started is the hardest thing to do so I went to a woodturning course at Lee Valley and received instruction on how to turn one. These courses are always great.

Here are the steps I took to turn the stopper:

Continue reading 'Cocobolo Wine Bottle Stopper Topper'

This pen came out extremely well. I am quite pleased with it. Here are the steps that I took to create this pen. First, you will need a pen blank and a pen kit:

Continue reading 'Zebrawood European Round Top Pen'

However, I was able to get out there for a few hours and turn a small bowl out of walnut. The bowl is 5″ in diameter and 1 3/4″ tall with straight sides and a shallow curved bottom:

I found the walnut fairly easy to turn, in fact, quite enjoyable. It finished up well too. Walnut always finishes with a look of elegance, as confirmed by even my limited turning skills.

Here’s a sequence of photos showing the steps I took to create this bowl.

Continue reading 'Walnut Bowl From The Whipping Wind'

Although there are quite few different plans and ideas for building a mortising jig, as well as commercial jigs available, I chose this one because it’s quite simple and quick (an hour or so) to build – cut 1/4 hardboard (still commonly referred to as ‘masonite’) to size. Drill the holes to match your plunge router. Route out the slots for the guide screws. Cut the guides to length and drill the holes for the carriage bolts.

Continue reading 'A Simple Plunge Router Mortising Jig'

The problem with cutting 45 degree angles is that if your table saw is out of alignment by any amount you will not get a perfect 45. This may not be noticeable when putting only two pieces of wood together but when you have to make a square with 4 pieces you’ll find that there will be undesirable gaps at the miters. A 45 degree cutting miter jig, or as I call it – The Perfect Picture Framer Jig, will eliminate this problem.

Here is a top view of this simple jig:

Continue reading 'The Perfect Picture Framer Jig'